Which sports watch and for which budget?
Sporty yet elegant wristwatches are absolutely timeless. That has been proved by models that were created a half-century ago and have lost nothing of their contemporary quality even today. They are also exceptionally versatile and can be worn with a dinner jacket or even a casual outfit.

Up to CHF 5,000

The French manufacturer Bell & Ross became known for its square watches designed like aircraft cockpit instruments. With its BR05 line it has created a sophisticated sports watch with an integrated steel bracelet. Thanks to the glittering satinised bracelet, which merges seamlessly into the case, the entire watch looks as if it has been cast in a single piece. The luminous blue dial with the familiar clear Bell & Ross numerals and indexes creates a beautiful colour accent at the centre of the brushed and polished steel surface.

The Speedmaster model from Omega is one of the most historic wristwatches of our time. This model was selected and tested by NASA in the 1960s as the official watch for the American space programme. In 1969 it was the first wristwatch to be worn on the moon. Its clearly designed dial proved ideal for use in space. The chronograph function was useful for many missions. This iconic watch is powered by a hand-wound movement.

The new product from the factory in Grenchen is designed for sportsmen and -women, and gleams with a feather-light case made from Breitlight, an extremely durable carbon fibre compound. The chronograph has a stopwatch function precise to one tenth of a second and is powered by a thermocompensated SuperQuartz calibre with a chronometer certificate. The watch is available in five colour accents and is worn with a matching coloured rubber strap. Colourful fabric straps are also available as optional features made from Econyl, a hard-wearing plastic made from fishing nets recycled from the sea.

Up to CHF 10,000

The manufacturer from Le Locle has a long seafaring tradition. The new diver’s watch, the Diver X, is no exception. In its 44 mm black titanium case this sporty watch is waterproof to a depth of 300 m. The obligatory rotating bezel to set the diving time is designed with a carbon fibre inlay and this look is continued on the dial. The watch also boasts the large X characteristic of watches from this family. Inside, the watch is powered by the manufacturer’s reliable automatic UN-118 calibre with a power reserve of 60 hours. The matching display on the dial always shows how much energy the watch has left. This model is limited to 300 copies and is numbered individually on the edge.

Combined with the blue crocodile leather strap, the sun-brushed royal blue dial gives this diver’s watch an aristocratic and formal touch. The refined mechanism to lock the crown for diving reveals that the construction of this watch was once designed for professional use under water. A further speciality from Panerai is the so-called “sandwich dial”. The luminous material is applied to a lower dial and shines through the milled numerals and indexes of the upper plate.

Inside this watch beats a calibre that made history. In 1969 the movement with the name El Primero became the first chronograph calibre with a self-winding mechanism. The design of this Chronomaster model also refers back to that time. The large overlapping counters in three colours are very striking.

Up to CHF 15,000

Franck Muller from Geneva once assisted the traditional tonneau shape in making a new breakthrough. No wonder that his “Vanguard” sports line is also based on this elegantly shaped case. The chronograph with its striking numerals on the domed dial is powered by a movement with a self-winding mechanism. This feather-light watch is made from matt titanium and is operated by two buttons elegantly integrated into the edge. The blue of the dial is subtly reflected by the crocodile strap.

The design of this sporty pilot’s chronograph is rather untypical for Breguet and refers back to the 1950s when Breguet was the official supplier to the French Air Force. Accordingly, this watch comes across as clear and unambiguous. The chronograph calibre with a self-winding mechanism is manufactured in house and decorated to a high level with every trick of the trade. It even has a flyback function that allows the running stopwatch to be set to zero at any time and then begins to count the seconds once more without interruption.

The design of the Polaris model from the manufacturer Jaeger-LeCoultre originally dates from the 1960s. At that time, this especially robustly built watch was designed to accompany scientific expeditions to the most inhospitable places on earth. Even today, the model radiates the spirit of a measuring instrument for explorers. Its dial is clearly designed for optimum readability, while an exquisite factory movement with a chronograph and self-winding mechanism works on the inside.

Up to CHF 30,000

Blancpain collections would now be inconceivable without the Fifty Fathoms models. This diver’s watch has become a reference point for the brand from the Vallée de Joux and has been continuously improved since its launch in 1953. While the case is made from red gold, which flatters with a warm hue, the cobalt-blue dial has been produced in a complex process from high-tech ceramic. The watch is powered by the tried and tested Blancpain calibre 1315 with a self-winding mechanism.

The Laureato model is a design icon from Girard-Perregaux. With its octagonal bezel and grooved dial it belongs to the avant-garde of the 1970s, a status that this timeless watch retains up to the present day. The silver dial with the “Clous de Paris” pattern, consisting of tiny pyramids, creates an aesthetic contrast to the warm colour of the 34 mm case and the link bracelet made from pink gold with satinised and polished surfaces. The octagonal bezel is studded with diamonds in graduating sizes. This ladies’ watch is powered by the quartz calibre GP 013100-0002.

The design of the Overseas dates from the 1970s when many manufacturers were experimenting with new shapes for their cases. The round, knurled bezel contrasts with the flat brushed case made from pink gold, which merges seamlessly into the integrated alligator leather strap. The strap can be removed with a press of a button on the back and can be replaced with a sturdy, waterproof strap made from rubber. The back of the watch is closed with sapphire glass and displays an automatic movement from the Geneva manufacturer.

Up to CHF 100,000

The skeletonised watch movement with a star pattern makes the Excalibur model look as light as a feather. The titanium case also contributes to the 45 mm watch weighing almost nothing at all. The design of the watch clearly shows that it was created in collaboration with a tyre manufacturer. A further hint towards this collaboration is the design of the small winding weight that looks like the wheel of a super sports car. All the wheels of the movement can be observed at their work both from the front and the back.

It isn’t enough to know where the light comes from – it is better to know where it’s heading. With their dynamic FLOW watches, HYT is leading the watchmaker’s art into a new era. A specially developed microgenerator, activated by a push button, stores and releases the power required to activate eight or 13 LEDs that distribute their light evenly across the dial. Power and light combine here in a bold, asymmetrical 51-mm case, making this timepiece an “instant classic”.

The GMT Sport from Greubel Forsey opens a new chapter with its lightweight titanium case and the rubber strap, which is available in blue or black. The watch has a deliberately sporty appearance with its arched case, which nonetheless looks round from above. But inside, the open-work mechanism presents the familiar quality standard and the customary look of this headstrong watchmaking duo from La Chaux-de-Fonds. The GMT function is supplemented by a three-dimensional, rotating globe and a disc with 24 world cities which is visible from the back. On the dial side you are surprised by the curved hands held by an arched bridge, which follow the shape of the glass. The hand-wound movement provides 72 hours’ power reserve. A separate display gives information about the power reserve.

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